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- <fo:block text-align="start" font-size="10pt"
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- John Franklin - Journey to the Shores of the Polar Sea
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- font-size="10pt"
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- line-height="14pt" >
- p. <fo:page-number/>
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-
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-
- <!-- defines local TOC -->
- <fo:block font-size="10pt"
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- line-height="12pt"
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-Journey across the barren Grounds - Difficulty and delay in crossing Copper-Mine River -
-Melancholy and fatal Results thereof - Extreme Misery of the whole Party - Murder of
-Mr. Hood - Death of several of the Canadians - Desolate State of Fort Enterprise -
-Distress suffered at that Place - Dr. Richardson's Narrative - Mr. Back's Narrative -
-Conclusion.
- </fo:block>
-
- <fo:block font-size="8pt"
- font-family="serif"
- font-style="italic"
- line-height="10pt"
- space-before.optimum="3pt"
- space-after.optimum="3pt"
- text-align="start">1821. August 17.
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-MY original intention, whenever the season should
-compel us to relinquish the survey, had been to return by the way
-of the Copper-Mine River, and in pursuance of my arrangement
-with the Hook to travel to Slave Lake through the line of woods
-extending thither by the Great Bear and Marten Lakes, but our
-scanty stock of provision and the length of the voyage rendered it
-necessary to make for a nearer place. We had already found that
-the country, between Cape Barrow and the Copper-Mine River,
-would not supply our wants, and this it seemed probable would now
-be still more the case ; besides, at this advanced season, we expected
-the frequent recurrence of gales, which would cause great detention,
-if not danger in proceeding along that very rocky part of the coast.
-I determined, therefore, to make at once for Arctic Sound, where
-we had found the animals more numerous than at any other place ;
-and entering Hood's River, to advance up that stream as far as it
-was navigable, and then to construct small canoes out of the
-materials of the larger ones, which could be carried in crossing the
-barren grounds to Fort Enterprise.
- </fo:block>
-
- <fo:block font-size="8pt"
- font-family="serif"
- font-style="italic"
- line-height="10pt"
- space-before.optimum="3pt"
- space-after.optimum="3pt"
- text-align="start">August 19.
- </fo:block>
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-We were almost beaten out of our comfortless abodes
-by rain during the night, and this morning the gale continued
-without diminution. The thermometer fell to 33 deg. Two men were
-sent with Junius to search for the deer which Augustus had killed.
-Junius returned in the evening bringing part of the meat, but owing
-to the thickness of the weather, his companions parted from him
-and did not make their appearance. Divine service was read. On
-the 20th we were presented with the most chilling prospect, the
-small pools of water being frozen over, the ground being covered
-with snow, and the thermometer at the freezing point at mid-day.
-Flights of geese were passing to the southward. The wind however
-was more moderate, having changed to the eastward. Considerable
-anxiety prevailing respecting Belanger and Michel, the two men
-who strayed from Junius yesterday, the rest were sent out to look
-for them. The search was successful, and they all returned in the
-evening. The stragglers were much fatigued, and had suffered
-severely from the cold, one of them having his thighs frozen, and
-what under our present circumstances was most grievous, they had
-thrown away all the meat. The wind during the night returned to
-the north-west quarter, blew more violently than ever, and raised a
-very turbulent sea. The next day did not improve our condition,
-the snow remained on the ground, and the small pools were frozen.
-Our hunters were sent out, but they returned after a fatiguing
-day's march without having seen any animals. We made a scanty
-meal off a handful of pemmican, after which only half a bag
-remained.
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-The wind abated after midnight, and the surf diminished rapidly,
-which caused us to be on the alert at a very early hour on the 22d,
-but we had to wait until six A.M. for the return of Augustus who
-had continued out all night on an unsuccessful pursuit of deer.
-It appears that he had walked a few miles farther along the coast,
-than the party had done on the 18th, and from a sketch he drew on
-the sand, we were confirmed in our former opinion that the shore
-inclined more to the eastward beyond Point Turnagain. He also
-drew a river of considerable size, that discharges its waters into
-Walker's Bay; on the banks of which stream he saw a piece of
-wood, such as the Esquimaux use in producing fire, and other marks
-so fresh that he supposed they had recently visited the spot. We
-therefore left several iron materials for them. Our men, cheered by
-the prospect of returning, embarked with the utmost alacrity; and,
-paddling with unusual vigour, carried us across Riley's and Walker's
-Bays, a distance of twenty miles before noon, when we landed on
-Slate-Clay Point, as the wind had freshened too much to permit us
-to continue the voyage. The whole party went to hunt, but returned
-without success in the evening, drenched with the heavy rain which
-commenced soon after they had set out. Several deer were seen,
-but could not be approached in this naked country; and as our
-stock of pemmican did not admit of serving out two meals, we went
-dinnerless to bed.
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-Soon after our departure to-day, a sealed tin-case, sufficiently
-buoyant to float, was thrown overboard, containing a short account of
-our proceedings, and the position of the most conspicuous points.
-The wind blew off the land, the water was smooth, and as the sea
-is in this part more free from islands than in any other, there was
-every probability of its being driven off the shore into the current ;
-which, as I have before mentioned, we suppose, from the circumstance
-of Mackenzie's River being the only known stream that
-brings down the wood we have found along the shores, to set to the
-eastward.
- </fo:block>
-
- <fo:block font-size="8pt"
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- font-style="italic"
- line-height="10pt"
- space-before.optimum="3pt"
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- text-align="start">August 23.
- </fo:block>
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-A severe frost caused us to pass a comfortless night.
-At two P.M. we set sail, and the men voluntarily launched out to
-make a traverse of fifteen miles across Melville Sound, before a
-strong wind and heavy sea. The privation of food, under which
-our voyagers were then labouring, absorbed every other terror;
-otherwise the most powerful persuasion could not have induced
-them to attempt such a traverse. It was with the utmost difficulty
-that the canoes were kept from turning their broadsides to the
-waves, though we sometimes steered with all the paddles. One of
-them narrowly escaped being overset by this accident, happening
-in mid-channel, where the waves were so high that the mast-head
-of our canoe was often hid from the other, though it was sailing
-within hail. The annexed plate, from Mr. Back's sketch, will convey
-to the reader an accurate idea of the peril of our situation.
- </fo:block>
-
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-The traverse, however, was made;we were then near a high
-rocky lee shore, on which a heavy surf was beating. The wind
-being on the beam, the canoes drifted fast to leeward; and, on
-rounding a point, the recoil of the sea from the rocks was so great
-that they were with difficulty kept from foundering. We looked in
-vain for a sheltered bay to land in ; but, at length, being unable to
-weather another point, we were obliged to put ashore on the open
-beach, which, fortunately, was sandy at this spot. The debarkation
-was effected in the manner represented in the plate; and, fortunately,
-without further injury than the splitting of the head of
-the second canoe, which was easily repaired.
- </fo:block>
-
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-Our encampment being near to the place where we killed the deer
-on the 11th, almost the whole party went out to hunt, but they
-returned in the evening without having seen any game. The
-berries, however, were ripe and plentiful, and, with the addition
-of some country tea, furnished a supper. There were some showers
-in the afternoon,and the weather was cold, the thermometer
-being 42 deg, but the evening and night were calm and fine. It may be
-remarked that the mosquitoes disappeared when the late gales
-commenced.
- </fo:block>
-
- <fo:block font-size="8pt"
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- font-style="italic"
- line-height="10pt"
- space-before.optimum="3pt"
- space-after.optimum="3pt"
- text-align="start">August 25.
- </fo:block>
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-Embarking at three A. M., we stretched across
-the eastern entrance of Bathurst's Inlet, and arrived at an island,
-which I have named after Colonel Barry, of Newton Barry. Some
-deer being seen on the beach, the hunters went in pursuit of
-them, and succeeded in killing three females, which enabled us to
-save our last remaining meal of pemmican. They saw also some
-fresh tracks of musk oxen on the banks of a small stream, which
-flowed into a lake in the centre of the island. These animals must
-have crossed a channel, at least, three miles wide, to reach the nearest
-of these islands. Some specimens of variegated pebbles and jasper
-were found here imbedded in the amygdaloidal rock.
- </fo:block>
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-Re-embarking at two P.M., and continuing through what was
-supposed to be a channel between two islands, we found our passage
-barred by a gravelly isthmus of only ten yards in width ; the canoes
-and cargoes were carried across it, and we passed into Bathurst's Inlet
-through another similar channel, bounded on both sides by steep
-rocky hills. The wind then changing from S.E. to N.W. brought
-heavy rain, and we encamped at seven P.M., having advanced
-eighteen miles.
- </fo:block>
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-Starting this morning with a fresh breeze in our favour,
-we soon reached that part of Barry's Island where the canoes were
-detained on the 2d and 3rd of this month, and contrary to what we
-then experienced, the deer were now plentiful. The hunters killed
-two, and we were relieved from all apprehension of an immediate
-want of food. One would suppose the deer were about to retire to
-the main shore from their assembling at this time in such numbers
-on the islands nearest to the coast. Those we saw were generally
-females with their young, and all of them very lean.
- </fo:block>
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-The wind continued in the same direction until we had rounded
-Point Wollaston, and then changed to a quarter, which enabled us
-to steer for Hood's River, which we ascended as high as the first
-rapid and encamped. Here terminated our voyage on the Arctic
-sea, during which we had gone over six hundred and fifty geographical
-miles. Our Canadian voyagers could not restrain their expressions
-of joy at having turned their backs on the sea, and
-they passed the evening talking over their past adventures with
-much humour and no little exaggeration. The consideration that
-the most painful, and certainly the most hazardous, part of the
-journey was yet to come, did not depress their spirits at all. It is
-due to their character to mention that they displayed much courage
-in encountering the dangers of the sea, magnified to them by their
-novelty.
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-The shores between Cape Barrow and Cape Flinders, including
-the extensive branches of Arctic and Melville Sounds, and Bathurst's
-Inlet, may be comprehended in one great gulf, which I have distinguished
-by the appellation of George IV.'s Coronation Gulf, in
-honour of His Most Gracious Majesty, the latter name being added
-to mark the time of its discovery. The Archipelago of islands which
-fringe the coast from Copper-Mine River to Point Turnagain, I have
-named in honour of His Royal Highness the Duke of York.
- </fo:block>
-
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-It may be deserving of notice that the extremes in temperature
-of the sea water during our voyage were 53 deg and 35 deg, but its general
-temperature was between 43 deg and 48 deg. Throughout our return from
-Point Turnagain we observed that the sea had risen several feet
-above marks left at our former encampments. This may, perhaps,
-be attributed to the north-west gales.
- </fo:block>
-
- <fo:block font-size="8pt"
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- text-align="start">August 26.
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-Previous to our departure this morning, an assortment
-of iron materials, beads, looking-glasses, and other articles
-were put up in a conspicuous situation for the Esquimaux, and the
-English Union was planted on the loftiest sand-hill, where it might
-be seen by any ships passing in the offing. Here also, was deposited
-in a tin bow a letter containing an outline of our proceedings, the
-latitude and longitude of the principal places, and the course we
-intended to pursue towards Slave Lake.
- </fo:block>
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-Embarking at eight A.M. we proceeded up the river, which is full
-of sandy shoals, but sufficiently deep for canoes in the channels. It is
-from one hundred to two hundred yards wide, and is bounded by high
-and steep banks of clay. We encamped at a cascade of eighteen or
-twenty feet high, which is produced by a ridge of rock crossing the
-river, and the nets were set. A mile below this cascade Hood's
-River is joined by a stream half its own size, which I have called
-James' Branch. Bear and deer tracks had been numerous on the
-banks of the river when we were here before, but not a single recent
-one was to be seen at this time. Credit, however, killed a small
-deer at some distance inland, which, with the addition of berries,
-furnished a delightful repast this evening. The weather was remarkably
-fine, and the temperature so mild, that the mosquitoes again
-made their appearance, but not in any great numbers. Our distance
-made to-day was not more than six miles.
- </fo:block>
-
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-The next morning the net furnished us with ten white fish
-and trout. Having made a further deposit of iron work for the
-Esquimaux we pursued our voyage up the river, but the shoals and
-rapids in this part were so frequent, that we walked along the banks
-the whole day, and the crews laboured hard in carrying the canoes
-thus lightened over the shoals or dragging them up the rapids, yet
-our journey in a direct line was only about seven miles. In the
-evening we encamped at the lower end of a narrow chasm through
-which the river flows for upwards of a mile. The walls of this
-chasm are upwards of two hundred feet high, quite perpendicular,
-and in some places only a few yards apart. The river precipitates
-itself into it over a rock, forming two magnificent and picturesque
-falls close to each other. The upper fall is about sixty feet high, and
-the lower one at least one hundred, but perhaps considerably more,
-for the narrowness of the chasm into which it fell prevented us from
-seeing its bottom, and we could merely discern the top of the spray
-far beneath our feet. The lower fall is divided into two, by an
-insulated column of rock which rises about forty feet above it. The
-whole descent of the river at this place probably exceeds two
-hundred and fifty feet. The rock is very fine felspathose sandstone.
-It has a smooth surface and a light red colour. I have named these
-magnificent cascades Wilberforce Falls, as a tribute of my respect
-for that distinguished philanthropist and Christian. Messrs. Back and
-Hood took beautiful sketches of this majestic scene, which are
-combined in the annexed plate.
- </fo:block>
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-The river being surveyed from the summit of a hill, above these
-falls, appeared so rapid and shallow, that it seemed useless to
-attempt proceeding any farther in the large canoes. I therefore
-determined on constructing out of their materials two smaller ones
-of sufficient size to contain three persons, for the purpose of crossing
-any river that might obstruct our progress. This operation was
-accordingly commenced, and by the 31st both the canoes being
-finished, we prepared for our departure on the following day.
- </fo:block>
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-The leather which had been preserved for making shoes was
-equally divided among the men, two pairs of flannel socks were given
-to each person, and such articles of warm clothing as remained, were
-issued to those who most required them. They were also furnished
-with one of the officers' tents. This being done, I communicated to
-the men my intention of proceeding in as direct a course as possible
-to the part of Point Lake, opposite to our spring encampment
-which was only distant one hundred and forty-nine miles in a
-straight line. They received the communication cheerfully, considered
-the journey to be short, and left me, in high spirits, to
-arrange their own packages. The stores, books, &c., which were not
-absolutely necessary to be carried, were then put up in boxes to be
-left en cache here, in order that the men's burdens might be as light
-as possible.
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-The next morning was warm, and very fine. Every one was on
-the alert at an early hour, being anxious to commence the journey.
-Our luggage consisted of ammunition, nets, hatchets, ice chisels,
-astronomical instruments, clothing, blankets, three kettles, and
-the two canoes, which were each carried by one man. The
-officers carried such a portion of their own things as their strength
-would permit;the weight carried by each man was about ninety
-pounds, and with this we advanced at the rate of about a mile an
-hour, including rests. In the evening the hunters killed a lean cow,
-out of a large drove of musk-oxen; but the men were too much
-laden to carry more than a small portion of its flesh. The alluvial
-soil, which towards the mouth of the river spreads into plains,
-covered with grass and willows, was now giving place to a more
-barren and hilly country; so that we could but just collect sufficient
-brush wood to cook our suppers. The part of the river we skirted
-to-day was shallow, and flowed over a bed of sand ; its width about
-one hundred and twenty yards. About midnight our tent was blown
-down by a squall, and we were completely drenched with rain before
-it could be re-pitched.
- </fo:block>
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-In the morning of the 1st of September a fall of snow took
-place; the canoes became a cause of delay, by the difficulty of
-carrying them in a high wind, and they sustained much damage
-from the falls of those who had charge of them. The face of the
-country was broken by hills of moderate elevation, but the ground
-was plentifully strewed with small stones, which, to men bearing
-heavy burthens, and whose feet were protected only by soft moose
-skin shoes, occasioned great pain. At the end of eleven miles we
-encamped, and sent for a musk-ox and a deer, which St. Germain
-and Augustus had killed. The day was extremely cold, the ther-mometer
-varying between 34 deg and 36 deg. In the afternoon a heavy
-fall of snow took place, on the wind changing from north-west to
-south-west. We found no wood at the encampment, but made a
-fire of moss to cook the supper, and crept under our blankets for
-warmth. At sun-rise the thermometer was at 31 deg, and the wind
-fresh from north-west; but the weather became mild in the course
-of the forenoon, and the snow disappeared from the gravel. The
-afternoon was remarkably fine, and the thermometer rose to 50 deg.
-One of the hunters killed a musk-ox. The hills in this part are
-lower and more round-backed than those we passed yesterday, and
-exhibited but little naked rock; they were covered with lichens.
- </fo:block>
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-Having ascertained from the summit of the highest hill near the
-tents, that the river continued to preserve a west course; and fear-ing
-that by pursuing it further we might lose much time, and un-necessarily
-walk over a great deal of ground, I determined on
-quitting its banks the next day, and making as directly as we could for
-Point Lake. We accordingly followed the river on the 3d, only to
-the place where the musk-ox had been killed last evening, and after
-the meat was procured, crossed the river in our two canoes lashed
-together. We now emerged from the valley of the river, and entered
-a level, but very barren, country, varied only by small lakes and
-marshes, the ground being covered with small stones. Many old tracks
-of rein-deer were seen in the clayey soil, and some more recent
-ones of the musk-ox. We encamped on the borders of Wright's
-River, which flows to the eastward; the direct distance walked to-day
-being ten miles and three-quarters. The next morning was
-very fine, and,as the day advanced, the weather became quite
-warm. We set out at six A. M., and, having forded the river,
-walked over a perfectly level country, interspersed with small lakes,
-which communicated with each other, by streams running in various
-directions. No berry-bearing plants were found in this part, the
-surface of the earth being thinly covered in the moister places with
-a few grasses, and on the drier spots with lichens.
- </fo:block>
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-Having walked twelve miles and a half, we encamped at seven P.M.,
-and distributed our last piece of pemmican, and a little arrow-root
-for supper, which afforded but a scanty meal. This evening was
-warm, but dark clouds overspread the sky. Our men now began to
-find their burdens very oppressive, and were much fatigued by this
-day's march, but did not complain. One of them was lame from an
-inflammation in the knee. Heavy rain commenced at midnight, and
-continued without intermission until five in the morning, when it
-was succeeded by snow on the wind changing to north-west, which
-soon increased to a violent gale. As we had nothing to eat, and
-were destitute of the means of making a fire, we remained in our
-beds all the day ; but the covering of our blankets was insufficient to
-prevent us from feeling the severity of the frost, and suffering in-convenience
-from the drifting of the snow into our tents. There
-was no abatement of the storm next day ; our tents were completely
-frozen, and the snow had drifted around them to a depth of three
-feet, and even in the inside there was a covering of several inches on
-our blankets. Our suffering from cold, in a comfortless canvass tent
-in such weather, with the temperature at 20 deg, and without fire,
-will easily be imagined;it was, however, less than that which we
-felt from hunger.
- </fo:block>
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-The morning of the 7th cleared up a little, but the wind was still
-strong, and the weather extremely cold. From the unusual con-tinuance
-of the storm, we feared the winter had set in with all its
-rigour, and that by longer delay we should only be exposed to an
-accumulation of difficulties; we therefore prepared for our journey,
-although we were in a very unfit condition for starting, being weak
-from fasting, and our garments stiffened by the frost. We had no
-means of making a fire to thaw them, the moss, at all times difficult
-to kindle, being now covered with ice and snow. A considerable
-time was consumed in packing up the frozen tents and bed clothes,
-the wind blowing so strong that no one could keep his hands long
-out of his mittens.
- </fo:block>
-
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-Just as we were about to commence our march, I was seized with
-a fainting fit, in consequence of exhaustion and sudden exposure to
-the wind; but after eating a morsel of portable soup, I recovered, so
-far as to be able to move on. I was unwilling at first to take this
-morsel of soup, which was diminishing the small and only remaining
-meal for the party; but several of the men urged me to it, with
-much kindness. The ground was covered a foot deep with snow,
-the margin of the lakes was incrusted with ice, and the swamps over
-which we had to pass were entirely frozen; but the ice not being
-sufficiently strong to bear us, we frequently plunged knee-deep in
-water. Those who carried the canoes were repeatedly blown down
-by the violence of the wind, and they often fell, from making an
-insecure step on a slippery stone; on one of these occasions, the
-largest canoe was so much broken as to be rendered utterly unser-viceable.
-This was felt as a serious disaster, as the remaining canoe
-having through mistake been made too small, it was doubtful
-whether it would be sufficient to carry us across a river. Indeed
-we had found it necessary in crossing Hood's River, to lash the two
-canoes together. As there was some suspicion that Benoit, who
-carried the canoe, had broken it intentionally, he having on a former
-occasion been overheard by some of the men to say, that he would
-do so when he got it in charge, we closely examined him on the
-point; he roundly denied having used the expressions attributed to
-him, and insisted that it was broken by his falling accidentally; and
-as he brought men to attest the latter fact, who saw him tumble, we
-did not press the matter further. I may here remark that our
-people had murmured a good deal at having to carry two canoes,
-though they were informed of the necessity of taking both, in case
-it should be deemed advisable to divide the party; which it had
-been thought probable we should be obliged to do, if animals proved
-scarce, in order to give the whole the better chance of procuring
-subsistence, and also for the purpose of sending forward some of the
-best walkers to search for Indians, and to get them to meet us with
-supplies of provision. The power of doing this was now at an end.
-As the accident could not be remedied we turned it to the best
-account by making a fire of the bark and timbers of the broken
-vessel, and cooked the remainder of our portable soup and arrow-root.
-This was a scanty meal after three days' fasting, but it served
-to allay the pangs of hunger, and enabled us to proceed at a quicker
-pace than before. The depth of the snow caused us to march in
-Indian file, that is in each other's steps; the voyagers taking it in
-turn to lead the party. A distant object was pointed out to this
-man in the direction we wished to take, and Mr. Hood followed
-immediately behind him, to renew the bearings, and keep him from
-deviating more than could be helped from the mark. It may be
-here observed, that we proceeded in this manner throughout our
-route across the barren grounds.
- </fo:block>
-
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-In the afternoon we got into a more hilly country, where the
-ground was strewed with large stones. The surface of these was
-covered with lichens of the genus gyrophora, which the Canadians
-term tripe de roche. A considerable quantity was gathered, and
-with half a partridge each, (which were shot in the course of the
-day,) furnished us with a slender supper, which we cooked with a
-few willows, dug up from beneath the snow. We passed a comfortless
-night in our damp clothes, but took the precaution of sleeping upon
-our socks and shoes to prevent them from freezing. This plan was
-afterwards adopted throughout the journey.
- </fo:block>
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-At half past five in the morning we proceeded; and after walking
-about two miles, came to Cracroft's River, flowing to the westward,
-with a very rapid current over a rocky channel. We had much diffi-culty
-in crossing this, the canoe being useless, not only from the bot-tom
-of the channel being obstructed by large stones, but also from its
-requiring gumming, an operation which, owing to the want of wood
-and the frost, we were unable to perform. However, after following
-the course of the river some way, we effected a passage by means of a
-range of large rocks that crossed a rapid. As the current was strong,
-and many of the rocks were covered with water to the depth of two
-or three feet, the men were exposed to much danger in carrying their
-heavy burthens across, and several of them actually slipped into the
-stream, but were immediately rescued by the others. Junius went
-farther up the river in search of a better crossing place, and did not
-rejoin us to-day. As several of the party were drenched from head to
-foot, and we were all wet to the middle, our clothes became stiff with
-the frost, and we walked with much pain for the remainder of the day.
-The march was continued to a late hour, being anxious to rejoin the
-hunters who had gone before, but we were obliged to encamp at the
-end of ten miles and a quarter, without seeing them. Our only
-meal to-day consisted of a partridge each, (which the hunters shot,)
-mixed with tripe de roche. This repast although scanty for men,
-with appetites such as our daily fatigue created, proved a cheerful
-one, and was received with thankfulness. Most of the men had to
-sleep in the open air, in consequence of the absence of Credit, who
-carried their tent; but we fortunately found an unusual quantity of
-roots to make a fire, which prevented their suffering much from the
-cold, though the thermometer was at 17 deg.
- </fo:block>
-
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-We started at six on the 9th, and at the end of two miles re-gained
-our hunters, who were halting on the borders of a lake amidst
-a clump of stunted willows. This lake stretched to the westward as
-far as we could see, and its waters were discharged by a rapid stream
-one hundred and fifty yards wide. Being entirely ignorant where
-we might be led by pursuing the course of the lake, and dreading
-the idea of going a mile unnecessarily out of the way, we deter-mined
-on crossing the river if possible; and the canoe was gummed
-for the purpose, the willows furnishing us with fire. But we had to
-await the return of Junius before we could make the traverse. In
-the mean time we gathered a little tripe de roche, and breakfasted
-upon it and a few partridges that were killed in the morning.
-St. Germain and Adam were sent upon some recent tracks of deer.
-Junius arrived in the afternoon, and informed us that he had seen
-a large herd of musk-oxen on the banks of Cracroft's River, and had
-wounded one of them, but it had escaped. He brought about four
-pounds of meat, the remains of a deer that had been devoured by
-the wolves. The poor fellow was much fatigued, having walked
-throughout the night, but as the weather was particularly favourable
-for our crossing the river, we could not allow him to rest. After he
-had taken some refreshment we proceeded to the river. The canoe
-being put into the water was found extremely ticklish, but it was
-managed with much dexterity by St. Germain, Adam, and Peltier,
-who ferried over one passenger at a time, causing him to lie flat in its
-bottom, by no means a pleasant position, owing to its leakiness, but
-there was no alternative. The transport of the whole party was
-effected by five o'clock, and we walked about two miles further, and
-encamped, having come five miles and three quarters on a south-west
-course. Two young alpine hares were shot by St. Germain, which,
-with the small piece of meat brought in by Junius, furnished the
-supper of the whole party. There was no tripe de roche here. The
-country had now become decidedly hilly, and was covered with snow.
-The lake preserved its western direction, as far as I could see from
-the summit of the highest mountain near the encampment. We
-subsequently learned from the Copper Indians, that the part at
-which we had crossed the river was the Congecatha-wha-chaga of
-Hearne, of which I had little idea at the time, not only from the
-difference of latitude, but also from its being so much farther east of
-the mouth of the Copper-Mine River, than his track is laid down.
-He only making one degree and three quarters difference of lon-gitude,
-and we, upwards of four. Had I been aware of the fact,
-several days harassing march, and a disastrous accident would have
-been prevented by keeping on the western side of the lake, instead
-of crossing the river. We were informed also, that this river is
-the Anatessy or River of Strangers, and is supposed to fall into
-Bathurst's Inlet; but although the Indians have visited its mouth,
-their description was not sufficient to identify it with any of the
-rivers whose mouths we had seen. It probably falls in that part of
-the coast which was hid from our view by Goulburn's or Elliot's
-Islands.
- </fo:block>
-
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- font-style="italic"
- line-height="10pt"
- space-before.optimum="3pt"
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- text-align="start">September 10.
- </fo:block>
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-We had a cold north wind, and the atmosphere
-was foggy. The thermometer 18 deg at five A.M. In the course of
-our march this morning, we passed many small lakes; and the
-ground becoming higher and more hilly as we receded from the
-river, was covered to a much greater depth with snow. This ren-dered
-walking not only extremely laborious, but also hazardous in
-the highest degree;for the sides of the hills, as is usual throughout
-the barren grounds, abounding in accumulations of large angular
-stones, it often happened that the men fell into the interstices
-with their loads on their backs, being deceived by the smooth
-appearance of the drifted snow. If any one had broken a limb
-here, his fate would have been melancholy indeed; we could neither
-have remained with him, nor carried him on. We halted at ten to
-gather tripe de roche,but it was so frozen, that we were quite
-benumbed with cold before a sufficiency could be collected even for
-a scanty meal. On proceeding our men were somewhat cheered, by
-observing on the sandy summit of a hill, from whence the snow had
-been blown, the summer track of a man; and afterwards by seeing
-several deer tracks on the snow. About noon the weather cleared
-up a little, and, to our great joy, we saw a herd of musk-oxen
-grazing in a valley below us. The party instantly halted, and the
-best hunters were sent out; they approached the animals with the
-utmost caution, no less than two hours being consumed before they
-got within gun-shot. In the mean time we beheld their proceed-ings
-with extreme anxiety, and many secret prayers were, doubtless,
-offered up for their success. At length they opened their fire, and
-we had the satisfaction of seeing one of the largest cows fall; another
-was wounded, but escaped. This success infused spirit into our
-starving party. To skin and cut up the animal was the work of a
-few minutes. The contents of its stomach were devoured upon
-the spot, and the raw intestines, which were next attacked, were
-pronounced by the most delicate amongst us to be excellent. A few
-willows, whose tops were seen peeping through the snow in the bottom
-of the valley, were quickly grubbed, the tents pitched, and supper
-cooked, and devoured with avidity. This was the sixth day since we
-had had a good meal. The tripe de roche, even where we got
-enough, only serving to allay the pangs of hunger for a short time.
-After supper, two of the hunters went in pursuit of the herd, but
-could not get near them.
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-We were detained all the next day by a strong southerly wind,
-and were much incommoded in the tents by the drift snow. The
-temperature was 20 deg. The average for the last ten days about
-24.5 deg. We restricted ourselves to one meal to-day as we were at
-rest, and there was only meat remaining sufficient for the next day.
- </fo:block>
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-The gale had not diminished on the 12th, and, as we were
-fearful of its continuance for some time, we determined on going
-forward; our only doubt regarded the preservation of the canoe,
-but the men promised to pay particular attention to it, and the
-most careful persons were appointed to take it in charge. The snow
-was two feet deep, and the ground much broken, which rendered
-the march extremely painful. The whole party complained more of
-faintness and weakness than they had ever done before; their
-strength seemed to have been impaired by the recent supply of
-animal food. In the afternoon the wind abated, and the snow ceased;
-cheered with the change we proceeded forward at a quicker pace,
-and encamped at six P. M., having come eleven miles. Our supper
-consumed the last of our meat.
- </fo:block>
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-We set out on the 13th, in thick hazy weather, and, after an hour's
-march, had the extreme mortification to find ourselves on the
-borders of a large lake, which we subsequently learned from the
-Indians was named Contwoy-to, or Rum Lake; neither of its extre-
-mities could be seen, and as the portion which lay to the east
-seemed the widest, we coasted along to the westward portion in
-search of a crossing-place. This lake being bounded by steep and
-lofty hills, our march was very fatiguing. Those sides which were
-exposed to the sun, were free from snow, and we found upon them
-some excellent berries. We encamped at six P. M., having come
-only six miles and a half. Credit was then missing, and he did not
-return during the night. We supped off a single partridge and
-some tripe de roche;this unpalatable weed was now quite nau-seous
-to the whole party, and in several it produced bowel com-plaints.
-Mr. Hood was the greatest sufferer from this cause. This
-evening we were extremely distressed, at discovering that our im-provident
-companions,since we left Hood's River, had thrown
-away three of the fishing-nets, and burnt the floats ; they knew we
-had brought them to procure subsistence for the party, when the
-animals should fail, and we could scarcely believe the fact of their
-having wilfully deprived themselves of this resource, especially
-when we considered that most of them had passed the greater part of
-their servitude in situations where the nets alone had supplied them
-with food. Being thus deprived of our principal resource, that of
-fishing, and the men evidently getting weaker every day, it became
-necessary to lighten their burthens of every thing except ammunition,
-clothing, and the instruments that were required to find our
-way. I, therefore, issued directions to deposit at this encampment
-the dipping needle, azimuth compass, magnet, a large thermometer,
-and a few books we had carried, having torn out of these such parts
-as we should require to work the observations for latitude and
-longitude. I also promised,as an excitement to the efforts in
-hunting, my gun to St. Germain, and an ample compensation to
-Adam, or any of the other men who should kill any animals.
-Mr. Hood, on this occasion, lent his gun to Michel, the Iroquois,
-who was very eager in the chase, and often successful.
- </fo:block>
-
- <fo:block font-size="8pt"
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- font-style="italic"
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- space-after.optimum="3pt"
- text-align="start">September 14.
- </fo:block>
-
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-This morning the officers being assembled round
-a small fire, Perrault presented each of us with a small piece of meat
-which he had saved from his allowance. It was received with great
-thankfulness, and such an act of self-denial and kindness, being
-totally unexpected in a Canadian voyager, filled our eyes with tears.
-In directing our course to a river issuing from the lake, we met
-Credit, who communicated the joyful intelligence of his having
-killed two deer in the morning. We instantly halted, and having
-shared the deer that was nearest to us, prepared breakfast. After
-which, the other deer was sent for, and we went down to the river,
-which was about three hundred yards wide, and flowed with
-great velocity through a broken rocky channel. Having searched
-for a part where the current was most smooth, the canoe was
-placed in the water at the head of a rapid, and St. Germain, Solomon
-Belanger, and I, embarked in order to cross. We went from the
-shore very well, but in mid-channel the canoe became difficult to
-manage under our burden as the breeze was fresh. The current
-drove us to the edge of the rapid, when Belanger unfortunately
-applied his paddle to avert the apparent danger of being forced
-down it, and lost his balance. The canoe was overset in con-sequence
-in the middle of the rapid. We fortunately kept hold of
-it, until we touched a rock where the water did not reach higher
-than our waists; here we kept our footing, notwithstanding the
-strength of the current, until the water was emptied out of the
-canoe. Belanger then held the canoe steady whilst St. Germain
-placed me in it, and afterwards embarked himself in a very dexterous
-manner. It was impossible, however, to embark Belanger,
-as the canoe would have been hurried down the rapid, the moment
-he should have raised his foot from the rock on which he stood.
-We were, therefore, compelled to leave him in his perilous situation.
-We had not gone twenty yards before the canoe, striking on a
-sunken rock, went down. The place being shallow, we were again
-enabled to empty it, and the third attempt brought us to the shore.
-In the mean time Belanger was suffering extremely, immersed to
-his middle in the centre of a rapid, the temperature of which was
-very little above the freezing point, and the upper part of his body
-covered with wet clothes, exposed in a temperature not much above
-zero, to a strong breeze. He called piteously for relief, and
-St. Germain on his return endeavoured to embark him, but in vain.
-The canoe was hurried down the rapid, and when he landed he was
-rendered by the cold incapable of further exertion, and Adam at-tempted
-to embark Belanger, but found it impossible. An attempt
-was next made to carry out to him a line, made of the slings of the
-men's loads. This also failed, the current acting so strongly upon
-it, as to prevent the canoe from steering, and it was finally broken
-and carried down the stream. At length, when Belanger's strength
-seemed almost exhausted, the canoe reached him with a small cord
-belonging to one of the nets, and he was dragged perfectly senseless
-through the rapid. By the direction of Dr. Richardson, he was
-instantly stripped, and being rolled up in blankets, two men un-dressed
-themselves and went to bed with him; but it was some
-hours before he recovered his warmth and sensations. As soon as
-Belanger was placed in his bed, the officers immediately sent over
-my blankets, and a person to make a fire. Augustus brought the
-canoe over, and in returning he was obliged to descend both the
-rapids, before he could get across the stream; which hazardous
-service he performed with the greatest coolness and judgment. It
-is impossible to describe my sensations as I witnessed the various
-unsuccessful attempts to relieve Belanger. The distance prevented
-my seeing distinctly what was going on, and I continued pacing up
-and down upon the rock on which I landed, regardless of the
-coldness of my drenched and stiffening garments. The canoe, in
-every attempt to reach him, was hurried down the rapid, and was
-lost to the view amongst the rocky islets, with a rapidity that
-seemed to threaten certain destruction; once, indeed, I fancied that
-I saw it overwhelmed in the waves. Such an event would have
-been fatal to the whole party. Separated as I was from my com-panions,
-without gun, ammunition, hatchet, or the means of making
-a fire, and in wet clothes, my doom would have been speedily sealed.
-My companions too, driven to the necessity of coasting the lake,
-must have sunk under the fatigue of rounding its innumerable arms
-and bays, which, as we have learned from the Indians, are very
-extensive. By the goodness of Providence, however, we were spared
-at that time, and some of us have been permitted to offer up our
-thanksgivings, in a civilized land, for the signal deliverances we then
-and afterwards experienced.
- </fo:block>
-
- </fo:flow>
- </fo:page-sequence>
-</fo:root>
projects / xmlgraphics-fop.git / commitdiff